It’s a fair wager that few people have spent as much time thinking of, obsessing over, focusing on and writing about surfing ...

There is an old surfer taunt ... and the familial comforts—a realm beautifully assayed in the book LeRoy Grannis: Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s, published last year in a collector's ...

He is on the boards of Surfers For Climate and Surfing Australia, a director of Aventuur, founded Awayco, authored children's books and recently won BBC’s Evergreen Athlete of the Year.