The airy, window-filled dining room is vivacious, but not party-loud, with noise-diffusing plants here and there, including a violet-leafed oxalis on the terrazzo bar as a nod to the past.

Cafe Zaffri’s pastry basket, whose wispy, lightweight croissant is similar to the one she serves at Raf’s, is excellent (and at $25, not a bad deal for breakfast for two).