Jan. 26, 2023 While some skew traditionalist, mortadella’s variances have been embraced across continents, giving the meat even more audience as it made its way into a range of cultures.

One day, I looked up, and mortadella was everywhere. It’s always been on the menu at my go-to sandwich spots — Rocco’s Italian Deli and La Pecora Nera — but soon, it was also a topping on ...