On the shoreline of Navarino Island, at the furthest tip of Chile, the atmosphere was placid. Seals lounged on boulders amid petrels; feral horses grazed between beached cabin cruisers; from the rows ...

and the desolate black sand of Whalers Bay is a stark contrast to the white purity of the rest of Antarctica. The picturesque capital of the Falkland Islands is replete with history but mostly it ...